Americas Heart & Soul - Part 3 - "Memphis"

Day 6 we hit the road early and the planned stop at a family run restaurant was cancelled due to the amount of people expected. There had been a big religious convention in St Louis (judging by the hats i saw was thinking Royal Ascot).
It was agreed to stop and get food at a large Walmarts which was actually fine as i don't mind a sandwich at Lunch. Also gave a few of us chance to do some bargain shopping and i came away with a couple of pairs of Wrangler jeans for $22 each (about £14 to my reckoning).

At this stage need to say we had a birthday on the coach, not just any birthday it was Dawns 40th so we all gave her a rendition of the song while Stephen our Tour Manager presented her with a cupcake with 4 candles on (one for each decade).

On arrival in Memphis we stopped at the visitors centre to use the facilities, steal all their leaflets and pick up some scruffy bloke who was out city guide. Now Memphis is a city you look at that on the surfice looks awful but actually provides some of the holiday highlights sadly our tour wasn't one of them. We did go to the Lorraine Motel (national civil rights museum) to see where Martin Luthur King was shot but most of us were dissapointed we didn't have time to go in.

Still at the end of the tour we got one of the highlights when we visited Sun Studios albeit a little late, the tour of the small studio was fantastic with a really enthusiastic bloke telling us the history in a humerous fashion. You do feel in awe when you stand at the microphone where the likes of Wolf, Cash, Perkins, Lewis and someone called Presley once stood.






We then got to our hotel which was located only a couple of blocks to Beale Street where everyone was heading for the food and nightlife. So it was a quick shower & shave and hit Beale, group i was with decided to eat at Silky O'Sullivans Irish Bar, was a woman singer on and by the looks of the black rings around her eyes think she was on something sronger than aspirin. She had a decent voice but killed a few songs by been too loud (or am i getting old).

After the meal had a walk up Beale looking in a few souvenier shops so June & Steve could compete in the fridge magnet competition.
For entertainment we had decided on Blues City Cafe where a group called Hillbilly Casino where playing, they were a Rockabilly act from Nashville and when the walked on stage the looked crazy but was they good, awesome i would and what a range of songs. Some people bought their teeshirts but for some unknown reason i wanted one but ended up with their Christmas Album. Latest night out of the holiday but definately a Memphis highlight.

Following morning and breakfast at TGI Fridays which was ok it was off to Church and a Gospel Service, turned out interesting but even if you didn't like it you couldn't leave judging by the bouncers on the doors keeping people in. The Gospel singers were amazing nd the lead singer had a cracking voice and they even had a guitarist & drummer in the church.
Now the reverand was something out of the movies and he gave a sermon like you've never seen he also encouraged a lot of friendship and we all had to give people near us a hug on more than ne occasion. Certainly was a experience.

Following our escape from the hugs and handshakes it was on to Graceland where we spent 5 hours, for me 4 hours would have been enough but appreciate more ardent Elvis fans would want to stay all weekend.

Was impressed though enjoyed touring the house and the various museums and its well worth doing even if you are not his biggest fan. Passing the grave was quite touching.

















That night some of us decided to eat at TGI Fridays food was fine but they took an age for them to find us some knifes & Forks, ok for those with chips but me as i had mash with my meal. Poor service to be honest and didn't really deserve their tips that we gave them.

Afterwards it was a walk to Beale for a couple of Beers but it was much quieter on a Sunday night as most of the weekend crowd had gone home.

So thats Memphis and following Day it would be on the road again for the trek to New Orleans.

City Breaks - Memphis great party town

I visited Memphis back in September 2005.



I arrived at my Hotel (Comfort Inn, Downtown) around 6pm a little tired and hungry after almost 15hours travelling. The weather was hot and very humid in fact as I got off the plane remember it was like hitting a wall of heat.
The hotel and staff were great and I wouldn't hesitate staying there again. Although I was travelling alone I was given a large room with two double beds. Exploring the hotel I found the swimming Pool on the roof with a great view of the Mississippi.


After a shower and change of clothes I asked at the desk if there was anywhere close I could grab a bite to eat. The girl suggested I caught the trolley which stopped close to the hotel down to Beale Street. I decided to walk as I had spent so much time seated on a aircraft. I though the walk was a litlle bit iffy as the only people about where street beggars, I wouldn't fancy this walk late at night.

When I arrived at Beale Street it was a hive of activity with live music everywhere. I was thinking of where to try for food when I walked passed a beer garden where a group was playing some great songs. I thought I would have a beer first listen to the group then go for a meal.
No sooner had I got served a group of people from near New Orleans asked me about my accent. Upon hearing I was English they befriended me and I spent the rest of the evening with them, the funny part was I could hardly understand their southern accent and they struggled with my Yorkshire talk. At an interval the singer with the group called Bill came over and chatted with us, people were friendly.

After 11pm I was very tired and decided to catch the trolly back to my hotel thinking it would be busy. When I got to the stop there was only me and a couple from Kansas they where nice and showed me where to get off for my hotel. I then realised I had so much fun that I hadn't eaten so it was chocolate and biscuits from the hotel vending machine (my first Memphis meal).

The following morning I got up refreshed and after my hotel complementry breakfast I went for a walk along the banks of the river. I find walking is the best way to explore a city. It was quite deserted except for the odd jogger as I remember. I later that day found out that people don't leave Beale Street until the sun comes up and sleep all morning. In fact a typical Memphis day is sleep until midday, laze around the swimming pool all afternoon, Out all night partying, grap the odd BBQ rips in between these activities. I did my best for the rest of the time I was there to keep up with the locals.

Beale Street was great especially after dark when the police closed the road and you could walk from bar to bar with your beer. Music was everywhere, Blues, Rock, Jazz, Elvis, etc. I liked the idea of paying to get in one club entitled you to go in them all, they stapled a coloured band on your wrist.
Remember acrobats doing cartwheels down the street, the whole atlosphere of the place is superb.


Two of the best most entertaining acts I saw in Memphis was a lady Pianist/singer Marcia Ball who played in BBKings club on the Saturday and The Dempseys a rockabilly trio in Blues Cafe.
Check them out -



While in Memphis I visited the National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Hotel where Martin Luthor King was assasinated. It was very interesting.
First they show you a very educating film about the Civil Rights movement then you tour the museum.



I also visited the Rock and Soul Museum which told the story of the areas music history it was good, really enjoyed it.

I spent another afternoon on Mud island where there is a scale model of the Mississippi that you can walk along, the entrance was close to my hotel.

Conclusion Memphis is a great place to visit for a long weekend if you like having fun, much longer you may get bored as there is not a lot to do or see during the day. I will definately visit again one day just for the music, Beale street is my type of place.

City Breaks - Memphis a sunday night tale

Last year while I was in Memphis this happend on the Sunday night.

I made my way to Beale Street about 6pm with the intention of getting a meal while it was quiet, then take in some live music and possibly meet some new people.

When I arrived I didn't feel ready to eat so I made the decision to go in "The Tap Room" which was the only place with no live music, my intention to see if any of the locals would play me at Pool.
The place was virtually empty with the exception of two blokes on a Pool table and the pretty young girl serving behind the bar.

I got a beer from the girl, she told me she was bored, she had been working all day and finished soon. I was about to go ask the blokes if I could get a game of Pool when the Girl asked "Do you want to play with me ?". I replied why not assuming she played Pool.
She climbed over the bar sat down at side of me and spun a VDU screen around. She wanted to play a computer game, I hate computer games but I obliged.

After a short while I was saved when another customer, a  blond girl who was really attractive came in the bar and sat down at the bar. She looked totally out of place in that bar but we started chatting and I found out she was from Kansas and was in Memphis on business.
I stayed chatting with her untill around 9pm when she said she was going back to her Hotel to catch up on some work ready for a meeting the morning. I wasn't too dissapointed I was starving (I did asked her earlier if she wanted to go for something to eat but she had already done so).

So I went and dined on my own at a restaurant called "Pig" which is actually quite good.
After my meal I thought I'll go into a club "Blues Hall" for some live music. As I went to the bar to get a drink the singer was taking a bucket around the audience for tips. He came up to me and I put a couple of dollars in his bucket and he asked where I was from, I replied Yorkshire, England, he announced this to the audience.

As I got to the bar a lady (40ish) said your from England so am I. We got in conversation, she was from Bournmouth at the opposite end of England to me. She told me she was recently divorced and had treated herself to this vacation. It was on an organised tour and she was moving on to Nashville the following morning (thinking about this  wonder if it was a Just You or Solos holiday, i'll never know).

We talked for ages and had a lot in common, in fact I spent the rest of the night with her, chatting and listening to the music, we had a good laugh, just got on great.

Anyway here is the point, back then I didn't often swap details with people I meet on vacation.

Confession - The following day when this lady had moved on to Nashville I realised I really liked her a lot and was gutted I hadn't swapped details (I can't even remember her name). Still we live and learn.