Scotland Road Trip (part two) - North coast 500

One of the reasons we decided to do a Scotland road trip was after reading a article in a magazine about the North Coast 500 a trip around northern Scotlands scenic highways. The route starts and ends in Inverness and we spent 5 days doing it which seemed about right.

I'll add its part of the world with no chain hotels so it needed a little work booking a variation of B & B's before embarking. It was good to book ahead as most places were full, going hoping to find somewhere isn't really an option.

Day 6 :- Inverness to Wick - Hit the road early crossing the bridge north out of wick heading for a area at the other side of the water called "The Black Isle". With Cathy navigating we soon left the duel carriageway onto a b road only to find ourselves back and crossing back into Inverness. Next attempt we found our turnng and drove to Chanonry Point which is opposite side of the Moray Firth to Fort George (but watch out for stray golf balls as you drive through the course). The beach had a few people looking out and we soon found out why with lots of Dolphins entertaining us.


We drove to the the end of the black isle through some lovely scenary but were dissapointed when reaching Cromatarty to find the water area totally industrialised.



After touring the black isle we joined the A9 heading north again but it wasn't long before we decided to divert and go to Bonner Bridge where we found a lovely cafe for lunch (actually overlooking the bridge).


Then it was up to Lairg but not before diverting along a single track B road to visit the "Falls of Shin", It was pretty and apparently a good place to see Salmon jumping up the waterfall but we were a week or so early I believe.

 Eventually had to make our way to the main coast road and on to Wick (really could have stopped anywhere).

Did make a few stops including a walk on the beach at Brora and then at the Badbea Historic Village where as it was friday had my weekly haircut much to Cathy's amusement.






Was a couple of stops for scenic photos and finally a cafe about 30 minutes south of Wick (lets just say excellent home made cakes).

Finally arrived in Wick and found our B & B "Harbour House" which is a small place with just 4 rooms. Unusually it doesn't have a dinning room the procedure is order your beakfast night before with a time of your choosing and the owner delivers on a trolly to your room, was a different experience but worked just fine.

On the evening in Wick just across the Harbour we found an excellent french restaurant called "Bord de L'eau" for our meal. Finally was over to Wetherspoons to finish the night before walking back to the B&B at 11pm still in daylight.

Day 7 :- Wick to Stathy - We left Wick or tried to but the Navigator decided we should drive along a wide footpath which went well until we got to the end and some steps. Soon reversed up and found the road and a Tesco Petrol Station to fill up.

Not a long drive today but plenty of iconic places to visit including of course John O'Groats.

Nothing much there other than the expected tourist shops and cafe where we had a coffee before moving a short distance east to Duncansby Head.

Had a stop at a secluded beach, other than the sheep of course, two of which were on an escape mission charging down the road towards us at one stage.

After a look at the views we went for a walk along the Cliff tops to the Stacks of Duncansby, nice view but the exercise was good.


Eventually back in the car for the short drive to Dunnet Head the most northern point on the British Mainland again it was great views.


Feeling a bit peckish we decided to then drive to Thurso to find some where for a snack. Ended up in a small cafe attached to a bakers and enjoyed a lovely meat pie.

After leaving Thurso we headed west stopping first at St Mary's chapel. We had to park a distance away and enjoyed the walk to the ruins with more amazing views.

Afterwards we drove to Strathy passing Reay Golf Club apparently the most northerley 18 hole course in the country.
We were staying at the Strathy Inn but didn't check in as went to Strathy Point first. Apparently its where the Atlantic Ocean meets the North sea and of course another lighthouse.

Was another good walk from the car park, great to get some exercise on these road trips.

Finally got to our B & B a lovely little pub run by a Yorkshireman with 3 rooms to let, we got the one on the ground floor and were both impressed.

We ate at the Pub and the food was fantastic especially washed down with a few local brews. Cathy took the opportunity to try Old Pulteney Whisky which had been recommended to us. We also enjoyed the breakfast the following morning and would definately recommend the place to anyone touring he north coast.

Day 8 :- Strathy to Ullapool - Now the roads started to get interesting, even the A roads were single track in lots of places.

We took a detour from the coastal route heading inland along the B871 and B873 along the beautiful Loch Naver. Decided the weather was hotter than we thought so while in middle of nowhrere stopped the car for us both to do a striptease and put our shorts on (Frightning the sheep in the process).

Then headed back to the north coast enjoying a coffee stop at a small cafe along Loch Loyal. Bit of an issue when Cathy wanted the toilet as both had signs for "Gents", apparently the owner said he ordered both but they sent two "Gents" signs so he fitted them anyway (only in Scotland, lol).

We eventually rejoined the coastal route to cross the impressive causway over the Kyle of Tongue.

A few photo stops of the amazing Scenary we eventually got to Durness where we stopped to get some supplies as we planned to eat at our B & B on the Evening.

One thing I'll add is there is a shortage of road side cafes along our route as we both were ready for lunch. It wasn't until we reached Scourie we found a cafe bar alongside a caravan site where we enjoyed a Panini. Bit of coincidence as we spotted a couple of lads on Motorbikes that had been at the same coffee stop a few hours earlier. Not sure whether its coincidence or lack of cafes in this part of the world.

Continued along the scenic highways before again leaving the Single Track A road to go along the smaller and scary B869, great fun driving around cliff top bends and steep ups and downs eventually arriving at Lochinver for afternoon Ice Cream.

Eventually arrived in Ullapool but had a drive around the other side of the Loch to our B & B which was basically at the end of a tiny lane. Lovely place had two rooms to let and a nice lounge for guests to chill out in. The owners actually had a pet sheep called "Pet" who after birth had been brought up by their dog, Read about it here Pet "The Sheep (dog)" .

On arrival was just a letter addressed to me telling us which was our room and where everything was, doors unlocked as its obviously a very safe and trusting part of the world.
Sun was still shining so we decided to crack open a bottle of wine to enjoy sat out on the lawn.
As the evening drew in we showered and changed before sitting in the lounge enjoying more wine with some cheese and biscuits we purchased earlier. The Landlady came in to say hello and we had a good chat, its a place i would recommend.


Day 9 :- Ullapool to Loch Carron - Following a good breakfast we hit the road but it wasn't long before our first stop to have a look at the Corrieshalloch Gorge and the Falls of Measach.


Back on the road it was a string of photo stops and admiring the fantastic scenery taking in Lochs, mountains and coast.




 Also stopped for a short walk at the Beinn Eighe nature reserve for a short walk.

Onwards to Victoria Falls for more pics and short walk.




Lunch was at a lovely place overlooking a Loch called Shieldaig very scenic and Cathy managed to mug them with the cost of a couple of Shandy's and nice Sarnies.


 Should have had something stronger to drink as the next part of the journey to Applecross was along a crazy road around the coast. Great fun and certainly got the adrenalin pumping.

Following a Ice cream stop in Applecross it was on a minor road over the mountains to our overnight stop in LochCarron. We seemed to climb for ages but then the down on the minor road was even more scary than previous roads, loved it. Did stop at the top of the road for a Photo Shoot.

Finally got to Lochcarron and happy to find the Pub we were staying at right on the Loch with great views. Had a bar meal in the busy place before going for a nice walk before returning and sampling the local brew.

Must add this was the place we tried Haggis with breakfast, better than expected I will add.



Day 10 :- Loch Carron to Loch Ness - Despite driving along beautiful Lochs and mountains to return to Inverness and finish the North Coast 500 it wasn't quite as inspiring as other days. Dont get me wrong its still amazing but just not the same as the previous few days.

Did find one real beauty spot along the way with a stop at Rogie Falls.

Across to Inverness for late morning and a short walk along a section of the Caledonian canal.

Then it was time to head along part of the most famous loch of them all to see if we could spot Nessie.

No luck with the monster search we decided to drive up a mountain until we found a nice spot in a forest along the Great Glen way for a picnic lunch.

After that a stroll in the forest, thought we were alone until came across a shed full of twitchers with rather large cameras looking for rare birds.

Then it was onto our hotel in Drumnadrochit which turned out to be part of the Nessie exhibition centre. Nice place we were in a block away from the main building, bar and restaurant was excellent for our evening meal.